Emma Vloeimans
Written on October 25, 2022


The fashion month circus has come to an end, leaving the world with many newborn trends, rumours, and newly gained insights. Never were fashion collections such a reflection of our zeitgeist. We witnessed modern fairytales, dodgy show venues, heavy metals, fantasy worlds, and lots of craftsmanship. For those who can’t see the forest for the trees: we’ve got you covered. These are the biggest fashion trends for spring/summer 2023.

Fashion trends spring/summer 2023

Making up the balance after fashion week hasn’t been this interesting in years. Some were disappointed, others found it disturbing, and even some thought fashion month was a boring gathering of things we’ve all seen before. When diving a little deeper into the meaning of each collection, it quickly becomes clear that most collections were very on point toward the zeitgeist. True, escapism and fashion have always been interchangeably connected, but isn’t creating a parallel fashion universe one of the main goals of the industry? Whatever your thoughts, deep diving into next season’s trends is always a pleasurable moment. Therefore, we present to you the six biggest fashion trends for spring/summer 2023.

1. Artistic shoes
Seen at: every collection

Last season, Jonathan Anderson took a new spin on Loewe’s shoe game. The British creative director developed  balloon heels , and processed even splashed eggs into his footwear designs. For spring/summer 2023, he took it to another, perhaps
chicer, level. Pumps embellished with deflated balloons juxtaposed seemingly inflated shoes. Despite its originality, Loewe wasn’t a standout this season; nearly every fashion house engaged in the ‘artistic/dangerous/sculptural’ shoe trend.

This trend should come with a critical note, though. Shoes too beautiful to walk on, are always too good to be true. At many shows, this was the case. It was for good reason that one model at Fendi took off her shoes on the runway – she simply
couldn’t bear it anymore. Guests witnessed the same at Pierpaolo Piccioli’s collection for Valentino, featuring models barely able to walk the heels he designed.

See below article for photo references

2. The intersection of art and fashion
Seen at: Prada, Loewe, J.W. Anderson, Tod’s, Sportmax, MSGM, Balenciaga,

Art or fashion, that was the most important question to be answered during fashion week. For Prada’s ss23 show, the Fondazione was all covered in paper. Creative duo Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons wanted to emphasise the human made side of fashion, leading to an unusual protagonist: paper. It’s the material men with which every piece of the collection started. They originate from a raw sketch, and paper is an unmissable product throughout the entire process. Prada and Simons, therefore, assigned their designers to create prints on paper, after which they draped the material on the models. It led to seemingly unfinished dresses, leaning into the world of arts and crafts.  Loewe didn’t only do sculptural shoes this season, but showed corresponding dresses, too. Whether they were meant to interfere with the models’ movements or were simply there to claim space – no one really knew. At Sportmax, rave-inspired prints dominated the scene. With both ‘chaos’ and ‘serendipity’ as keywords, the show notes explained the house constructed ‘its experiment in the form of an alchemical collage of elements that discover their balance while transcending the confines of any logical explanation’.

3. Sheer eveningwear
Seen at: Fendi, Prada, Nensi Dojaka, Chanel, A.W.A.K.E. Mode, A. Roege Hove

Go bold or go home, must have been the slogan repeating itself endlessly in the creative directors’ heads. Sheer eveningwear isn’t for the faint-hearted, though. To create wearability, Virginie Viard added sheer glitter socks and shoes to her ss23
collection for Chanel. Juxtaposed with firm tweeds and timeless classics, the sheer trend doesn’t suddenly seem so frightening anymore. For those who dare to go all-out, there are always enough options at A. Roege Hove (if you haven’t watched the show yet, please do so after finishing this article),A.W.A.K.E. MODE, Fendi, Prada, and, of course, Nensi Dojaka.

4. Romantic revival
Seen at: Chanel, Acne Studios, Isabel Marant, Raf Simons, Dior

It’s a no-brainer that an extra dose of romance is very welcome in times like these. Right-wing politicians rapidly expand their power, war dominates the news, and the pandemic may be over its peak, but many still face an uncertain (near) future.
Adding a little romance to everyday life seems a logical next step. Lace, flowers, and sheer materials were combined to create divergent Y2K-inspired looks at Acne Studios and Isabel Marant. At Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri dived a little deeper into history – Marie Antoinette seemed to be her main source of inspiration.

5. Living in a fantasy
Seen at: Thom Browne, Louis Vuitton, Ottolinger, Gucci, Alexander McQueen

Tough times call for escapism – which is fashion in its purest form. At Thom Browne, a fashion fairytale came to life. Gwendoline Christie opened the modern Cinderella story in a way only Thom Browne can think of. Models walked the runway dressed up as villains and other movie characters, barely recognizable. Sarah Burton let her imagination run wild when developing psychedelic prints for Alexander McQueen ss23, just as we noticed at Sportmax. The latter was all about
duality, and the contrasts between organic shapes and patterns as opposed to geometric structures.

See below article for photo reference

6. A new take on basics
Seen at: Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Tod’s, Miu Miu, Diesel, BOSS, MM6 Maison
Margiela, Max Mara

Besides the dramatic acts at many fashion houses, a new take on basics formed a common thread as well. Demna (Balenciaga) always finds the extraordinary in the ordinary, which climaxed with his newly developed leather  Lay’s crisps bags  that undoubtedly include a sense of mockery. Mattieu Blazy has a different approach when it comes to wardrobe staples; Bottega Veneta’s ss23 collection consisted of timeless stunners that weren’t what they
seemed. Jeans and lumberjack blouses made from soft leather, for example.

Reminiscing fashion week, one common theme becomes clear: nothing is what it seems. And there we go again; this season was all about fashion perfectly pinpointing the current state of the world.

Photo reference 1 : click here

Photo reference 2 : click here

Written by Emma Vloeimans
Emma Vloeimans is digital manager at Harper’s Bazaar, and founder of – an independent platform dedicated to fashion, creative minds, and everything that stands out instead of fitting in. Fashion savvy since a young age, Emma has developed herself into a true fashion nerd, who prefers to deep dive into show notes, fashion history, and stories behind the creative minds working in the industry.